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Reminiscences of Things Permanently Gone

December 10th, 2009  |  published in Out and About.

photographed on Santa Catalina Island on June 12, 2009

How often, in looking over the blue waters of the ocean, we wonder at the mysterious life of the depths, and imaging the strange creatures which dwell there. Poets have described their fancies of it, scientists have written down in their exact language its characteristics, but what a revelation to see it for one’s self! The glass-bottom boats are unique in California, I believe, although but an adaptation of the marine observation glass which has long been in use. From these boats it is possible to look down into the water to the depth of fifty to one hundred feet and observe the life as clearly as we look about us on land. Rowing over the kelp beds, the observer is suddenly transported into a wonder world which surpasses his most fantastic dreams. Great trees loom up out of the gloom and spread their broad corrugated leaves of amber in the bright sunlight. They wave and sway with the gentle motion of the water, and in and out swim the fish, now darting into the shadow of the kelp and again flashing in the sunlight. Schools of little fish glide with lithe motions back and forth. The golden perch glistens in its radiant armor. Now and then the iridescence of a little rainbow fish shimmers in the sun ray. The boat floats over flower beds of red, green and blue seaweed, and over rocks which are alive with the strange creatures of the deep – spiny sea urchins, sprawling starfish, floating jellyfish, and those interesting low marine creatures, tunicates. All is silent save for the gentle lapping of the waves on the boat’s side, but we are looking into another world with the same curiosity and awe that the inhabitants of Mars might look into ours. It is a fascinating, never-to-be-forgotten scene …

Santa Catalina is a lovely spot in which to rest and dream away the summer days in a climate that is balmy and tempered, where the gentle breeze just ripples in the undulating surface of the bay, and where the unending succession of fair days is a constant inducement to out-of-door life. In this sheltered retreat of Avalon we are on historic ground, for here, centuries ago, the Indians lived in peace and caught their fish and hunted among the rocks for abalones; here came the discoverer of Alta California, Cabrillo; and later, he who christened it with its present name, Vizcaino. Still later is formed a retreat for the buccaneers of the coast, and then the Franciscans came to induce the Indians to leave their happy home and dwell and toil about the missions. At least this is the supposition, for the Indians have vanished from the island and left behind them only their mortars and other implements of stone and shell. In this quiet bay of Avalon the Indian fishermen has paddled his canoe, the Spanish caravels have sought refuge from the tempest, the freebooter has lain in wait for his prey, and today pleasure boats glide over its waters and the shrill whistle of the steamer sounds to warn us that the hour has come to leave for San Pedro.

Excerpted from Southern California by Charles A. Keeler. Published by Raymond & Whitcomb, Santa Fe Route, 1899.

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